A Chiddingly history by William Chives

"Glorious Sunset", how sweet to gaze on,
In wonder, love, and admiration;
Colours blending, hues unending,
Past the art of man, or nation.
See what shafts of crimson lights,
Are o'er the tired earth stealing;
Now they change to pure gold,
Like a mantle they unfold,
The Maker's Power revealing.
With the sun's declining rays,
Time seems all too previous;
To lose a glimpse we lose the praise -
Which from our hearts we long to raise,
And ever upward press us.
When watching thus the setting sun,
Another scene recall;
Our Lord with hearing in His hand,
The sick, the lame, unfit to stand
He heals them one and all.

William Chives 1942

Dawn
Ah, here you are. What a gloriously light morning. Yes, that is the harvest moon, just dipping westward which makes it so easy to see our way. We will not talk too loudly before we get clear of the village. See, most folks are still in bed, and there may be some of the older folks who has had little sleep all night. You do not think of that in London, did you say? No, there is always more noise there just before daybreak than when everyone is up. The thousands of lorries come rumbling into the city, with the various things for the markets: meat, milk, fish, vegetables and a whole host of other things, all coming from the country too.

How different it seems though here in the pure, lovely, sweet fresh air, fresh and yet quite warm. I must take a good deep breath or two of it, a treat we seldom get in London. Ah, now we will turn in across the fields here. What a narrow little cottage. Yes, that is called Coopers Cottage. Why Coopers? I am sorry I must confess I do not know. There may have been an old-fashioned trade of coopers, or hoop-making. One often used to see them round the vegetable and apple barrels. Ah, we did quite right in bringing our galoshes. Look, the dew is quite thick on the young grass, but how lovely it looks. Hark, the rooks are being warned of our approach past the rookery, by the one on guard. Look, there it is sitting right on the very top of that old elm tree, where he has good outlook all around.

We go straight ahead now to yonder brow with those trees on top. You will find they are firs when we get there. What was that weird noise? It made a chill run through my whole body. We never hear such weird sounds in London, only when visiting the zoo. Oh, that was only a vixen, yes, a female fox. We might hear her mate calling back to her in a moment. Yes, listen, there it is again. Just two short, sharp barks, like a dog. He is over in Vert Wood. Ah, here we are come to the hard road. Yes, we can take one of the two paths, one is down on the right about 50 yards, the other up the road, and here at these cottages we turn in across the public footpath which will lead us to Gildridge which is a very picturesque old ... century house (which I have been informed, by the way, was once one of the Lodge houses on the Earl of Chichester's Estate).

Yes, there it is in front of us, silhouetted against the sky there, where the moon has just gone down. Ah, here is the main turnpike again. Two or three hundred yards more and we shall just be in time to see the dawn appear. Already there seems to be a strange feeling of nearness. Ah, listen, that is the first note of a bird, calling to herald the break of another day. My goodness, hark at them all warbling now. It seems like a thousand singing. Well, this is something I have never heard before, nor I, nor I. Isn't it simply lovely after Town. Yes, my friends, but turn yourself round now we have reached this farm, Price's Farm, and in a very few minutes, if I am not mistaken, you will see another sight which you will never forget.

Yes, look there are the grey lines of approaching dawn. Now they are turning slowly into silver. How lovely. Now watch, there, look, rays of burning crimson just showing on the horizon. And look at the lovely old church steeple. How stately it stands up on that hill, guarding (as it seemed to) the whole parish when we saw it from the opposite angle two weeks ago at sunset. My goodness what would not our friends in London give to see that lovely large round red sun, looking just like a ball of fire. I am glad you have enjoyed it. I felt sure you would, as I have done so often.

Now before we part, I should like you to know of a few other good views of Chiddingly church and to be had from points of advantage in Chiddingly. A most charming view can be obtained from another of the highest hills in Chiddingly both at sundown and also as the evening is just approaching (and again at any time of the day providing it is clear), namely Pick Hill, where one sees the undulating scenery of the greater part of the parish, forming a lovely panorama. The church forming the outstanding object which very soon attracts one's attention, where, if one happens to have a telescope or binoculars, a lovely view of the South Downs, sweeping westward as far as Ofham, near the County Town. A truly magnificent sight to behold, which all true lovers of landscape beauty would enjoy.

Now we will take a view or two closer home, that is nearer to village. We will walk from Pick Hill to Scrapers Hill, passing the old-fashioned Gun Inn, which I have been informed derived its name from the supposition that at the time of the Battle of Hastings, Gun Hill was one of the many places round where cannon were placed in the event of invasion by the enemy. We turn our steps now down through this lane, another public footpath. This is named The Strood, sometimes called erroneously The Stroud. Next we pass through the Bulls Farm which, as you will notice, stands almost on the very edge of the river bank. Now we turn left, up the road mounting the Bulls Hill. That too is often named wrongly, being called Hale Hill. Why Strood, and again the Bulls, I do not know.

There is yet another name for Bulls Hill which when people use the wrong name they are very misleading. I remember some twenty to thirty years ago, one would hear folks call it Poets Hill. Why, again, I must confess I am ignorant, unless it being that a certain Mr Woodgate lived in that little cottage (which always seems to me to be perched on the steep bank, looking to my mind as though it might have been intended to rest at the top of the steep incline, but just could not reach there). The said Mr Woodgate was known to many as Poet Woodgate, that being the only object that I can surmise. Now we pass the Hale Green Farm with the old-fashioned timbered farm house, which dates back two or three centuries or even more.

There is one thing which still remains very vividly in my memory. It is this; Cherry Fair. One could see a very large number of people all there, and purchase some of the most delicious juicy cherries, which one would have a difficulty in beating for size and flavour, blackhearts 5d and whitehearts 6d per pound. Ah, methinks, I see the dear old lady now as then, endeavouring to supply the customers with the luscious fruit. Now having viewed that lovely old house we will proceed down the road to the Park Farm entrance. But before we go too far, turn your gaze to the left. Over yonder we see The Pekes, the country seat of the late Honourable Terence Bourke, he being the British Consul for East Africa in my younger days.

See how the sun seems to be enveloping it, while one can see the South Downs forming a lovely background to the picture. Yes, that is another public footpath turning in on the left which we might have used in coming to view the church from Scrapers Hill. That being so, we should have turned in across the fields nearby Gatehouse Farm at the Gun which would have brought us out to this very spot. Now come with me a step or two off the road. "What a funny little trap-like gate." Yes, that Sussex folk call a kissing gate. Why, I don't know. In Hants they are named cuckoo pens. (Again, I don't know why). But see here, they may be opened to allow folks to side through when foxhunting on horseback. That is the real reason why they were first made that way in Hampshire. My father told me, he himself has made and erected lots of them there, and several in Chiddingly.

We will pass through into the joining field where we get another lovely view of the east end of the Church, also the spire, best seen in the early morning, when the sun is eastward. Time waits for no man, and we must needs be proceeding on our tour. Yes, that is the road up there at the top of the hill from where we can procure one of the best views. Ah, here is a little stream, with a brick bridge spanning it, which by its appearance is getting a mellow look, and with the coming desire of people to see the beauty of the countryside by riding on "mystery drives" as one often sees on the name panel in the front of the motor coach, I am wondering how much longer that little bridge will be standing, to grow to a real deep tone, for being on the bend in the road as it is, and right at the foot of the hill, Scrapers. Methinks it will be found to be far too narrow for the charabanc, in which case should it take place during your stay in Chiddingly, remember me.

Yes, that footpath is public alright, through that gate on the left; do I know it? Yes, very well, it leads one to the road from the Gun to Thunders Hill. Should you wish to take a walk to Hellingly through the fields and brookland, you may cross over the road which that footpath here leads on to, then follow the winding track up over yonder banky field, which leads one to Hawth-bush Farm, which by the way is on the edge of the parish of Chiddingly. Then folks will find themselves in going on at the Broads Farm. Well, here we are at the top of good old Scrapers. Just a dozen more strides or so and we shall be able to get a lovely view of the Church again. Looking away westward one can see East Hoathly in the background.

Look, there is Clarklye on the bank; Hale Green there. That is the road which we have just come down. Stonehill is up there above Hale Green, but after you have feasted your gaze on those two points, drop your range of sight down to the valley at your feet and there one has the best view of The Park, which was once owned by people of renown, namely Sassoons. A very fair view of the church can be had from the Burgh Hill also, and a close-up. Also a very charming view of it is waiting for us at the north end of the village in the meadow along another public footpath which leads to Hilders Court. (Today we find the Observer Post along this path - 1942).

There is but one thing (at the time of writing this) that breaks the mellow tone of the grand old church as well as the old house, The Pilgrims, which by the way is one thing I am sure of that not being the original name of that fairly old house (Bignonia Lodge). Now the break in the even mellow tone surrounding the old village is, of course, the comely new pair of substantial workmen's dwellings, but we must hope that in the years to come they will be mellow too. Standing on the site of the old Vicarage or Rectory, now take a peep over this barway. See, there is a neat, clear view of the church with the Vicarage close by; this field? - the Vicarage Field. To obtain my last picture of our grand old edifice, come into the Holy Acre where all is Peace.

Chiddingly Hops
Do I hear someone ask, where? Well, there is very little doubt that in the years of not so very long ago, there were a very large number of farms whereon hops flourished. That being so, if the number of hop oasts has anything to do with it, have you any idea what the number is? No? Well, I often say a great number of people live for a great part of their lives in one small corner of the world, but when asked how many oasts, rustic bridges, kissing gates, or even public houses, let alone the number of public footpaths their parish can boast of, they have to admit they do not know. So now, dear reader, get busy on the five former ones, while I go on a ramble with a knot of visitors to trace out the highways and hedges for public footpaths.

The Street shall be our centre from which we will go east first, so come, let us make a survey. There are a great many which we shall find it a bit difficult to trace, through overgrowth, so in going east we leave the centre of the village, we go through the old school field (Village Hall) over Coneybury field out to Hale Green up to Stonehill. Now we go back to the centre, next we go to Muddles Green via the churchyard, Bolt Wood which brings us out at the top of The Green. Halfway back down the path we find a public path crossing it, from the centre of The Green (by the stores) leading through Bolt Wood to The Park on to the road. There is also a public right of way from The Street direct to The Park, leading one past the Village Hall, which, by the way, I remember when a boy was the cause of rather a lot of interest to the village folk.

The incident was this-wise. A gentleman (whose name I will omit) wished to turn the right of way over to the opposite side of the hedge at the point where the lower end of the playground of the school, as it was then, ceases. He therefore had a stile or some structure of that nature erected, but it was very soon removed, whereupon it was erected a second time, only to find it was removed yet a second time. It was therefore to no avail and the right of way remains as it was previously, I think I am right. Now we travel to the Beards, halfway up Stonehill. There we have a bridle path, public right of way leading out to the top of Pick Hill. While there we will trace the public footpath, turning in opposite Highdown, out to Stonehill House. Now we will find the rest, while working with the course of the sun.

Our next point is Rosebank Farm at the top of Pick Hill again, which public footpath leads us through Rosebank Farm out to Gamelands which is in the parish of Hellingly. Next we go to the bottom of Pick Hill, there we find another public footpath leading to Swans-brook which is in Chiddingly. Next we go down to the Gun Inn where just below we find another shortcut, though public, leading us out on to the lane from Swans-brook. Passing over the lane almost opposite to us, we enter upon another public footpath to North Street, Hellingly. Now we return to half way down West Street lane where we leave the lane, turning in on the right and follow the path (public) out to Worlds End Farm. That farm is, however, just in the parish of Hellingly, too.

Next we return to Gate House at the Gun, where we can go right away to The Street, if we so wish, that being a public path. However, we will go on down to the top of Amlye of Hamlye Hill, on our right is another public path which meets the one from Gate House Farm, while on our left it continues on down to Hawthbush Farm down in the wilds, through to Broads at Hellingly. At the bottom of the hill (Amlye) we find another crossing the road by the bridge. Again we can travel right or left through brookland pastures, which I have stated a page or two previously. Now we go on to the top of the hill by Thunders Hill but before passing Thunders we find another shortcut (public) across to the park and Scrapers Hill.

Actually at Thunders Hill Farm there is a shortcut (public again) out to the Green (Muddles). On the left at the top of Thunders Hill we go through The Pekes. Straight on takes one to the Broads at Hellingly again, while back at the bottom of The Pekes private grounds by turning right we find our public path out to the end of the old Back lane, which leads to Horsebridge. We will, however, go out past the Hackhurst Brickyard on to the Dicker. We now return to Nash Street down at Brook Cottages. There is another public path which half way up has a junction. The left turn brings one out to Muddles Green, while if we keep straight on we find ourselves out on the road leading from Thunders Hill to Muddles Green.

Our next public path from Nash Street is found leading in opposite the old Poor House which leads straight across the entrance to Marigolds Farm out to the Dicker ending just below the old Black-barn. Now we will go along to within 100 yards of the Golden Cross, where on our left we turn in across the fields nearly opposite the Timber yard coming out at the old Millhouse Cottages. Now we go to the Golden Cross, thence down Deanland Lane. Some 100 yards down, we find a slip path (public) through to the Mill (Windmill) which cuts the corner off via the Cross. Farther down the lane, we find a public footpath. Crossing it on our left we find it leads to the Chalvington road, on our right it leads us through Broad Oak on to the main road at Lewes.

Crossing over this main road, opposite we go up to what is known as the Chapel or Bat and Ball public footpath on to the main road leading to Uckfield. Away back beyond the Golden Cross, there is another path which is also public. Entrance to it is found by the Chapel (Independent) Cottage, leading out to the bottom of Burgh Hill. Now we proceed to the Burgh Hill Farm, through which some folks claim as a public footpath to Whitesmith, but the public path is entered upon halfway down the hill, on the left hand of the road over a narrow stile which is still standing today (1942). From thence we go as far as the school at Muddles Green where fifty yards farther on we find another public right of way through Birch Wood after which the cottage at the entrance is named, i.e. Birch Cottage.

This path has a lane as the entrance. It was used as a Drive round to The Place in the olden times, at least that is if reports are true, but I have never seen such a statement in print. Our next public path is found at the lower end of the Glebe (Vicarage meadow) up to the Church. Opposite the lower end of the Glebe we find another public path leading through the fields to Holmes Hill, at a junction (after passng through the small coppice at the end of the two fields from the road). We follow it to Whitesmith finishing up through Birchets Farm, Whitesmith.

While there, we will find the public paths in that vicinity. No 1. Shortcut from Birchetts Farm down on to the main road. No 2. Shortcut through the top end of the meadow which forms the triangle at which point the letter box has stood for 50 years. From the "centre", The Street, we find the public path through The Friths to East Hoathly. Branching off at the Friths, we follow the path to Clarklye where we find another public path from that point to East Hoathly, through Grey Wood. Away back at our centre, we start on our last public right of way through to the old brickfield to the bottom of Honeywick Lane.

Crossing over it we go to the Stream Farm crossing over the road leading from the Stream Hollow to the Holdens. Should we go down to the top of Stream Hollow we turn into the last hopfield to be used in Chiddingly which leads us in to the path in the field named Smithlands which is our final path, from the top of Honeywick Lane to Stonehill. Now, when totalled up, the number of public footpaths to be found in Chiddingly is ... It is a very important fact that if these paths are not used more than they have been used in the last few years, they will be closed down (through not being used), by people who would like to see some of them closed for ever. That being so, I would urge people to use them more frequently and keep them open to those who are yet to come after us.

So hike a while
And climb that stile,
And keep them free for ever.

William Chives 1940 - 1941